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We sailed down from Bone Rate to the
west coast of Flores which gave us access to the Komodo National Park.
Komodo and Rinca are the biggest islands in the park and are famous for
being the home of the largest lizards in the world - the carnivorous
Komodo Dragons. They were only discovered by westerners during the last
century. They roam these islands killing large prey like water buffalo,
deer and even occasionally men. They carry listeria in their saliva
which is a lethal bacteria. They only need to bite their prey once and
then they wait for up to a fortnight for it to die of septicaemia. These
pictures were all taken on Rinca. Needless to say we didn't allow the
dragons too close although we did witness somebody being attacked by
one. The snorkelling and diving were also superb. The
manta ray was swimming in one of our anchorages
Komodo dragons

Water buffalo
Fish Eagle
Long tailed macaques

Wild boar
A deer on the beach

Manta Ray Anchored off Rinca
Then we sailed on to Lombok where we had a
tremendous welcome. Lombok is at present only developed in a few areas,
but it is looking to develop tourism. We were lucky to visit before it gets
spoilt, although it is unlikely ever to attract tourists as much as its
neighbour Bali because it doesn't have the number of potential tourist
attractions that Bali has.
Ceremonial welcome to Sail Indonesia

Lesley trying her hand at traditional weaving

Bali is well known as a tourist
island but the locals have struggled since the bombings of 2004. We
stayed for a few nights just outside Ubud. We hired a driver to take us
around to see as many sights as possible in our limited time there.
Breakfast on the balcony with the Bali volcano in the
distant background Enjoying a magnificent traditional meal

Hindu temples

Paddy fields

Barong dancing Kecak dancing

After Bali we set sail to Kumai for
one of the anticipated highlights of our circumnavigation. A 450 mile
passage through busy waters dodging anything from large container
vessels to small fishing canoes kept us on our toes. As we approached
Kumai we encountered large numbers of tugs towing very large loads. Their navigation lights did not always correctly indicate that they were
towing which made night sailing somewhat hazardous!
Tapestry progressing well under downwind sails A sea-going tug pulling a raft loaded with logs

Once anchored in Kumai we took a two
day trip by klotok to see the orang-utans in their natural habitat. The
indiscriminate logging previously carried out in the tropical rain
forests of Indonesia has made them an endangered
species. The Indonesians are now well aware of the problem and have been making
efforts to properly control tree felling.
We saw several wild orang-utans. These were the
boldest ones.

We visited Camp Leakey which was
originally a research station to study and rehabilitate orphaned
orang-utans but it is very run down. It is now only used as a site
to feed rescued orang-utans as they usually cannot make the full
transition back to the wild.
A male greeting us on arrival
A female leads us along the walkway to the camp

"Tom" the alpha male of the Camp Leakey orang-utans.

Wild proboscis monkeys
An athletic gibbon

By the time we had visited Kumai our visa only had a few days to run.
We set sail with two other yachts towards Batam Island which was just
over 600 miles away. One of them JJ Moon suffered a transmission
failure half way there and the other yacht
Troubadour towed them over 350 miles to Nongsa Point. Meanwhile
we pressed on to organise a suitable berth for them to be towed
into. Nongsa Point marina has all the comforts of a hotel including a
lovely swimming pool but it was as difficult as elsewhere to find
skilled help. JJ Moon's troubles were only just beginning because
they were unable to arrange the repair in Indonesia and eventually had
to be towed to Singapore to have it carried out.
Our visa ran out soon after we arrived and it was time
to make the short passage across one of the busiest shipping lanes in
the world to Singapore. |