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We had always been apprehensive about
sailing to New Zealand because it would mean leaving the Trade Wind
route and we knew that the winds might be unfavourable and strong. We
had originally planned to sail from Fiji to Australia but the cyclone
season was now imminent. Almost without exception other yachts were now
heading south and we wanted the security of numbers on the water even
though we knew they would probably be hundreds of miles from us. We felt
we had no alternative but to change our plans and head for New Zealand.
On this passage of about 9 days we would normally expect a front through
about every 5-7 days and our tactic should be to meet it at about 30°S.
We requested weather routing and were advised to delay our departure for
a couple of days. When we finally motored through the exit pass from
Fiji it was a bad sign to see a tanker outside rolling too much for the
pilot to board her! Within 12 hours we had winds of 25-30 knots from
just in front of the beam with fairly rough seas and lots of green water
over the decks. This was to continue for the next 4 days; it was too
much for Lesley's stomach and she was soon out of action. Our
forecaster's route plan turned out not to be very accurate and in fact
we had our most settled conditions around 30°S.
When we were about 500 miles north of
New Zealand we had our second rig failure. The babystay tang (the metal
connection between the mast and the rigging wire) failed. We thought we
had plenty of fuel so that if the worst happened we could motor to New
Zealand but then we encountered a strong adverse current, which made it
less certain. Moonshadow (an Oyster 47 who we knew well) were
about 50 miles away and they offered us some fuel. We rendezvoused with
them and transferred 3 jerry cans of diesel across which in the end we
didn't need. We expected to face more difficult conditions before we
would reach New Zealand. We effected a jury rig using spare halliards
and a line from the spinnaker pole mounting. If we were not able to
stabilise the mast we would be in serious danger of losing it and we
were not sure how easy it would be to cut the rigging wires in a rough
sea. When the next front came through the wind settled at between 30-40
knots with gusts up to 55 knots. We were very nervous for 24 hours as
the seas built up but in the end the rig survived well enough. When the
wind eventually settled down to around 20 knots over the beam we
cautiously sailed into Opua with a full genoa and main. We were very
relieved to have arrived safely and were overcome by the messages of
good will from other boats who had been concerned for our welfare. What
a wonderful community there is on the water!
We had replaced our standing rigging
only three years earlier and we wonder now about the quality of that
installation.
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Our jury rig
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Heaving the throwing line
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Tying a jerry can to the line
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Floating jerry can
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Pulling a jerry can in
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Lifting a jerry can aboard
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We cleared quarantine, customs and
immigration in Opua very quickly and immediately discovered why the
marine industry in New Zealand has such a good name. Within three days
the Selden rep had travelled up from Auckland to assess why our rigging
had failed and we were able to organise other necessary jobs to be done
while we return to the UK to see the family and to take a break from
sailing. We plan to return at the end of February to sail around the Bay
of Islands and perhaps to Auckland before sailing north to Queensland,
possibly via Norfolk Island or New Caledonia.
Before flying home we arranged a two
week tour around as much of New Zealand as we could reasonably see. We
had been told about the beauty of South Island but we also found much to
see on North Island.
Bay of Islands Bridal Veil Falls
New Zealand Christmas Tree

Typical North Island scenery
What New Zealand is famous for!
Russell church

The scenery on South Island is much more dramatic and
it was for this reason that much of Lord of the Rings was filmed here.
We based ourselves in Queenstown and Christchurch. Here are some
pictures showing the surrounding countryside



New Zealand has recognised the value
of offering lots of activities for visitors to partake in, especially as
the weather is very variable. We took the opportunity to try a few.
A jetboat trip

Panning for gold
Horse riding in Lord of the Rings country

A vintage steam ship trip was fun
A sheep shearer
A visit to a local Pinot Noir winery

Christmas in the park
Punting on the River Avon
Seeing the wildlife

We returned to Europe for three
months to see the family and enjoy some skiing in France, where the
World Ski Championships were held.
The finish of the mens downhill course in Val D'Isere
Getting ready to go skiing

When we returned we spent much of our
time preparing Tapestry for another year's sailing but we still managed
to enjoy some further sightseeing. In particular we were lucky enough to
see a kiwi which is fairly exceptional as they are nocturnal and quite
rare (no photographs of it though!).
A young Maori warrior
The biggest kauri tree in the world (girth 13.8m)

Geothermal Pools
Te Puia Geyser and Lake Rotoroa
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