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We were unable to live on board Tapestry while the new headlinings were being fitted and, as our ruby wedding anniversary was imminent ,we took the opportunity to tour Vietnam.
Our wedding took place at the height of the Vietnam war (known in Vietnam as the American war!). At least 2 million Vietnamese died in it. The current population totals about 84 million and 75% of them are aged less than 35 years old. Only one of our guides was alive during the war and we asked him about the Vietnamese perspective of the war. Vietnam was and still is a predominantly agricultural country and most people have never had any interest in politics. Ho Chi Minh happened to be a communist but much more important he was seen as the leader most likely to defeat France in 1954 and then later to reunite Vietnam. He was seen as a humble, incorruptible, far sighted man who meticulously planned achieving independence for Vietnam. He died in 1969 before the end of the conflict. He is now revered all over Vietnam and it was no coincidence that we were taken to his mausoleum as our first visit. Incidentally the mausoleum was built after his death contrary to Ho Chi Minh's wishes.
We flew to Hanoi. It is a crowded busy city with a French colonial influence.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Ho Chi Minh's presidential house The French Governor's house which Ho refused to live in One Pillar Pagoda
Many women still carry goods in this way Motorcycles have replaced bicycles Cyclos are only used by tourists now Street food
The unique and enchanting Hanoi water puppets Chinese lanterns for sale Roof top cafes are common in Vietnam
We took an overnight train north to Sapa which is in the mountains close to the border with China.
The local population here are not Viets. They have kept a very traditional lifestyle, albeit influenced by the tourism boom. They constantly approached us to buy souvenirs and were quite a nuisance. However they were very photogenic.
Black Hmong children Flower Hmong dress Red Dao dress A Black Hmong man working in a paddy field
We trekked here in the most beautiful scenery.
Lesley with our guide, Hiep, looking out over the paddy fields Grazing water buffalo
In much of Vietnam two or three rice crops can be grown annually but in Sapa the climate and the land restricts the growth to one crop
We celebrated our ruby wedding anniversary on a private junk in Halong Bay.
We then flew south to Hue in central Vietnam. This was the capital city 200 years ago. There is some magnificent Vietnamese architecture in and around Hue. The imperial tombs in particular are monuments to previous times. Unfortunately a large part of the Imperial city was destroyed by the Americans when the Viet Cong occupied it during the Tet offensive of 1968. There are moves to rebuild it as and when money is available.
Imperial city gate Royal library Thien Mu Pagoda on the Perfumed River
Three of the imperial tombs
Another minority group in Vietnam are the Cham who about a thousand years ago were the dominant nation in SE Asia. Over the last millennium they have been almost wiped out and there are now only small numbers left, mainly in south Vietnam. At My Son in central Vietnam some of the Cham architectural heritage remained until it also was damaged during the war. The museum in Danang now has the best exhibition of Cham sculpture anywhere in the world.
Scenery in central Vietnam Cham sculptures
A little further south was Hoi An. It is a pretty town that has been rejuvenated by the expansion of tourism in Vietnam
Cookery class Lesley riding pillion with our guide The water front The Japanese bridge
The very pretty Quang Dong Assembly Hall Burning incense Dragons are very symbolic in Eastern culture
Ho Chi Minh City is still mainly known as Saigon to the locals. Shopping malls and western hotels dominate the centre, but there is also architectural evidence of the French presence here. One obligatory visit we made was to the Cu Chi tunnels which are only an hour away. A few of these tunnels already existed before 1960, but they were extended greatly in anticipation of the Americans coming. They are close to the border with Cambodia and were built for the Viet Cong to attack the American forces. When the Americans came they built bases in the area. One was even built over the top of one tunnel! The Americans knew the tunnels existed and tried unsuccessfully to take counter measures but eventually had to resort to bombing the area and using defoliants. Vegetation only returned to the area about 10 years ago.
Saigon post office designed by Eiffel The Cu Chi tunnels were designed for the smaller Vietnamese people
Nam, our guide, pouring green tea Traditional Chinese medicines are big business in Saigon Colourful incense sticks
It can rain! Rubber plantations are common Making pop-rice
Our final visit was to the Mekong Delta where the population is still very dependant on the water for work and transport.
Traditional rowing boat Many of the houses are stilt houses - not all of them are as old as this one
The floating markets are the main trading sites
